Land of the Wild: Bird(er)'s Eye View!

Eaglenest travelogue (11th to 18th April 2010)

by Amey Ketkar

Opportunity to visit Northeast India was embraced warmly by the eager bird watcher in me. Super specialties like the Bugun Liochichla, Cutia, Ward’s Trogon and a variety of Scimitar Babblers and Fulvettas were enough to entice me to join Land of the Wild for a unique trip to Nameri Tiger Reserve and Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary. (In the picture: Eaglenest Forest. Pic courtesy: Jayesh Joshi)

After landing in Guwahati, we were immediately transferred to Nameri but not before detouring to a garbage dump in the vicinity. Thriving on the rubbish were the Greater Adjutant Storks, soaring all over the place. Apparently this place attracts nearly one third of the world’s population and we encountered nearly 300 individuals at the same site on our return journey. Arrangements were made at the Eco-camp at Nameri and we were just in time for dinner. A small introduction round revealed that our group was a great blend of experts; Vidya on butterflies, Saloni on frogs and snakes, Mr. Shrikant Ingalhalikar on plants and flowers and the rest were ace photographers including Sachin Rai. Above all we were to be guided by Shashank Dalvi who to my knowledge needs no introduction. This undisputed king of bird calls was majorly responsible for my visit to Eaglenest as I had fallen prey to his incessant talks about Arunachal. The only lesser mortals in the group were in the form of me and Rujuta and I was a little jittery about the absorption capacity of my little brain with a plethora of knowledge to come my way in the next 7 days. Finally shrugging off all anxiety I decided to concentrate on avifauna which was my priority. (In the picture: Nameri Eco-camp. Pic courtesy: Dharmesh Mistry)

Nameri Tiger Reserve with an area of around 200 sq km is home to around 370 species of birds and a variety of mammals. More importantly this is probably the only place in India for the White-winged wood duck (largest duck in India), a resident in this tropical forest. Dinner was followed by a small night trail which yielded in sighting of Tucktoo (Gekko gecko) and a Brown Hawk Owl. The weather changed drastically afterwards, hinting ominously towards a heavy downpour. As predicted it was raining next morning so no birding was possible, but we still decided to go ahead with our quest for the Wood Duck. The forest guards came in with one more bad news about the sudden rise in the water levels of the Jia Bhoreli River (called River Kameng in Arunachal) which made navigating impossible. We began to get worried about the heavy rains and lower temperatures at Eaglenest. (In the picture: Jia Bhoreli River. Pic courtesy: Jayesh Joshi)

Skipping the Wood duck we proceeded straight for Lama Camp spotting Leafbirds, Blue throated barbets, Lesser Yellownape and the Capped Langurs on our way. The show stealer was the Abbot’s Babbler who came prancing on the adjoining tree. Since we missed out at Nameri we tried our luck on some trails on the ourskirts of Pakke Tiger Reserve. The Bulbuls (Ashy, Black Crested, Black), Minivets and a Streaked Spiderhunter showed up instantly and all had good view of the Green Billed Malkoha and a pair of Barred Cuckoo Doves. Shashank heard the call of the Rufous-fronted Babbler. Here I must mention that birding in Arunachal is done more with ears than eyes. Being thorough with bird calls is a kind of a requisite. The rain subsided, but had done the necessary damage in the form of a land slide just before Sessa thwarting our proceedings. By the time we reached Lama Camp (2350 mts) via Tenga (1200 mts) we had bagged the Slaty backed forktail, Golden throated barbet, Yellow vented warbler and the Grey cheeked warbler. (In the picture: Eaglenest Forest. Pic courtesy: Atanu Mondal)

The obvious target species at Lama was the Bugun liocichla. Eaglenest named after the Red Eagle Division of the Indian Army has shot to fame recently because of the discovery of this new species (2006) by Mr. Ramana Athreya. I wouldn’t be doing justice to my travelogue without the mention of this man, as he along with Mr. Indi Glow (leading member of the Bugun tribe) and other colleagues are primarily responsible for all the limelight Eaglenest is receiving. The Biodiversity project initiated by Mr. Ramana is a classic example of community-based eco-tourism. The bird tours help generate revenue for the locals who in turn conserve and maintain the precious forest. Magnificently rich in its bird life, Eaglenest is still not the best place for a beginner. A lot of homework about the species and their altitudes along with a lot of report reading was required on my part to get acquainted with the habitat. (In the picture: Bugun Liocichla. Pic courtesy: Sachin Rai)

The light was great in the 1^st half of our birding session and diverse species like the Gold naped finch, Grey headed bullfinch, Black throated tit, Striated Laughingthrush and Streaked throated Barwing, Tickell’s leaf warbler showed up vying for attention. The Green tailed Sunbird, Beautiful Sibia, Blyth’s leaf Warbler and Brownish flanked Bush Warbler were omnipresent. Rufous winged, Yellow throated, Golden breasted Fulvettas and all three types of Minlas along with White browed and Black eared Shrike Babblers, Bay woodpecker, Chestnut crowned Laughingthrush added to our count. We also came across a few mix hunting flocks which is group of similar sized species formed a little later during the day (probably because the insect activity starts a little late). They can sustain together as they relish on different kinds of prey. The objective of forming a group is simple; more eyes help to look for more prey as well as for predators. I was fascinated by this act of complementing each other and got know that the flock is initiated by a group leader mostly the Fulvettas or Parrotbills in smaller birds. Later we also managed the see the highlight of the trip- a pair of Bugun Liocichla showing up in the nearby canopy. We were all on cloud nine and the midday meal was tastier than ever! (In the picture: Yellow-throated Fulvetta. Pic courtesy: Jayesh Joshi)

But my elation was interrupted by a strange itch and I soon discovered that the areas around both my knees had been bitten by a tiny insect which caused swelling. The bites were identified as of Dam Dum, a fly ubiquitous in the area. They had enjoyed feasting on my legs during our endeavor to see the Hill Prinia and the Tree Sparrow on our way to Lama (wonder what prompted me to wear shorts). The remedy to the aliment was simple; all I had to do was to ignore the irritation!! We set out for the Tragopanda Trail soon after lunch. The trail was a steep and arduous climb penetrating right through the thick foliage, offering a fair idea of the density of the forest. We were blessed with the sighting of Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Rufous capped Babbler and the Ashy throated Warbler. Considerable time was wasted to view the skulk species but we managed to see the Chestnut headed Tesia, Pygmy Wren Babbler and the Scaly Laughingthrush. (In the picture: Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler. Pic courtesy: Vidya Venkatesh)

Starting right from Tenga (1200mts) to Lama (2350mts) we continued towards Eaglenest Pass (2800mts) planning to descend to Sunderview (2465mts) and finally to Bompu (1940mts). The road went further down to Sessni (1250mts) and Khellong (750mts). Due to such varying altitudes the sanctuary offers a wide variety of birds. In olden times this was the only road connecting Assam and Tawang and was also used by the Great Dalai Lama (whence the name lama camp) to give the Chinese a slip. The army later constructed another road connecting Tenga to Bhalukpong and the old road was long forgotten, leaving the adjoining forest untouched. Not far from Lama Camp when we were engrossed in looking at the Sooty Flycatcher a moderately loud, slightly plaintive call of the Ward’s trogon was music to our ears. We literally ran in the direction and started scanning the fores but alas we missed this rare sighting. Instead we got the Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher and our patience paid off by the sighting of the Black- headed Shrike Babbler. No stone was left unturned to find the Ward’s Trogon and all likely places were checked and rechecked during the course of the trip. Sadly all efforts were rendered futile. While returning to our vehicles we stumbled upon the beautiful Eastern trinket snake. (In the picture: Eastern Trinket. Pic courtesy: Dharmesh Mistry)

Eaglenest Pass was adorned with the beautiful Magnolia and the multi coloured Rhododendrons and we had a good sighting of the Rufous vented Yuhina. The Ludlow’s Fulvetta posed for all photographers and so did the Large billed Warbler and Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird. Other highlights were the Crimson Browed Rosefinch and the Spotted laughingthrush and the rare Rufous Fronted Tit. Walking along a trail we came across the Yellowish bellied Bush Warbler and Black-faced Laughingthrush. Further ahead a Spotted Nutcracker and Crimson Breasted Woodpecker gave away their positions because of their shrill calls. All along the way to Bompu we enjoyed the pristine and picturesque forest of Arunachal. This place has a mesmerizing charm to it and is highly recommended for all nature lovers. On a night trail at Bompu we witnessed the mating of Rhacophorus frog where a female was being pursued by 5-6 males! We also saw a Blue Fronted Redstart perched near the camp. (In the picture: Gliding frogs mating. Pic courtesy: Atanu Mondal)

The 5^th day of our tour was the most hectic as we had planned to go all the way down till Khellong and return late after looking for frogs and snakes. The mornings in Bompu were chilly and blissful as we woke up to the tune of the Blyth’s Tragopan. On clearer days we got a great view of the colossal Bramhaputra. The early morning jaunts were always rewarded with something new and this time we sighted the Aberrant Bush Warbler, Coral billed Scimitar Babbler and the Greater Rufous headed Parrotbill. As we drove towards Sessni we got a good view of the Wedge-billed Wern Babbler. The Cicadas were at their noisy best and this reminded me of a wonderful documentary on them narrated by David Attenborough. Shashank had stumbled upon the nest of a Rufous Necked Hornbill during his earlier visits and suspected the bird to remain in the vicinity. We found the handsome male perched exactly where it was supposed to be (about 200m as the crow flies) and by focusing on the nest through the scope we could see the bill of the female as well (hornbills display unusual behavior of sealing the female in the nesting cavity after mating, she is fed by the mate through a narrow slit and does not emerge for weeks or months until the young are partly grown). (In the picture: Rufous-necked Hornbill. Pic courtesy: Jayesh Joshi)

Small Niltava and the Collared Owlet also showed up on the way. Sessni was a haven for butterflies and amongst the varied flying colours the two which attracted my attention were the Birdwing and the Chestnut Tiger. Earlier during the day I had made an attempt to sit on the top of our jeep to be in a vantage position, but the morning mist and a smack from a thorny bush discouraged me to continue with the effort. On the lower elevations of Sessni we were all focused on finding the Beautiful Nuthatch which was lurking somewhere nearby. In the end it made a faint transient appearance, good enough to mark as a lifer (this being my 1^st trip to northeast most birds were lifers for me; for non birders--the term “lifer” is used for a bird sighted for the 1^st time). In the attempt to find the nuthatch a few were able to capture the Maroon Oriole, Long Tailed broadbill and the Sultan Tit.
(In the picture: Small Niltava. Pic courtesy: Jayesh Joshi)

At Khellong we photographed the Flat Tailed Gecko (Platyurus platyurus) and made a few unsuccessful attempts to locate the Hogdson’s Frogmouth. On the return journey a Himalayan Krait crossed our path and we halted near Sessni for a night trail. It was dark and the night was filled with the cacophony of the Rhacophoridae and Philautus frogs and the mild hooting of the Mountain Scops Owl in the background (this owl is known to have the ability of throwing its voice just like a ventriloquist). Just after photographing the Rhacophorus tunhini our search for frogs was disturbed by a rustle in the trees and in a flash of a second all torches spot-lighted the Parti-colored Flying Squirrel. In a while we heard the rustle of leaves and a mild trumpet by the Elephant & we scampered to our jeeps taking no chances. We reached as late as 10.30pm and retired to our tents after a quick meal. (In the picture: Cloud Forest. Pic courtesy: Dharmesh Mistry)

Next morning we enjoyed watching the playful Golden Babblers and the colourful Cutia but the priced catch was undoubtedly the Green Cochoa. The other sightings were of the Lesser and White-browed Shortwings and a lone Black-Throated Parrotbill. Amongst raptors; Black eagle, Mountain hawk Eagle and Eurasian Sparrowhawk made regular appearances. Here I must elaborate on a drama we witnessed at Lama. A Mountain Hawk Eagle gliding with a kill was being hassled by the smaller accipiter. In the process to ward off the intruder the eagle lost its prey. Realising the same it made a step nose dive and skillfully managed to grab its prize. 'WOW!' The only expression we all managed as the whole event happened in a jiffy. The shutterbugs were so efficient that Jayeshbhai, Dharmesh and Atanu still managed to capture the spectacle in frames. Moving forward we encountered the bright red Scarlet Finch, a swarm of Honey Bees and twice came tantalising close to getting a view of the Slender-Billed Scimitar Babbler. (In the picture: Green Cochoa. Pic courtesy: Jayesh Joshi)

On 17^th we started our return journey and it rained all the way till Eaglenest Pass. On the lower elevations at Tenga we were surprised to spot the Black-tailed Crake and got snaps of Himalayan Greenfinch and Plaintive Cuckoo. We had to reach Sessa before dark as the mist that sets into the valley brings down visibility to near zero. A sumptuous meal was waiting at Nameri and hot water bath after 6 days was more than rejuvenating. Our flight was scheduled on 18^th afternoon, so we made a quick trip across the river to utilize the limited time. The weather was overcast but it didn’t rain. Some quick additions were the Small Pratincoles, Blyth’s Pipit, Bengal Bushlark, Great Myna and the graceful Dollar Bird. (In the picture: Black-tailed Crake. Pic courtesy: Jayesh Joshi)

The outcome of my 1^st trip to the northeast has been more than pleasing with a bird checklist of about 220 species (excluding heard birds). Kudos to Land of the Wild for organizing such a great adventure and may their earnest attempt to bring people close to nature flourish and prosper. A special message for all the feathered bipeds I missed out on—I will be back next year! (In the picture: Fire-tailed Sunbird. Pic courtesy: Vikram Potdar)